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E Series troubleshooting.

Be sure you are a qualified electrician before proceeding.

This series of units operates off a flow meter and computer board that turn the units elements on and off. The thermostats in this unit are solely a safety feature to shut the unit down in case of failure. Depending on how you are using your unit the thermostats should be 145 F. These thermostats determine the MAXIMUM temperatureinsidethe unit before they break the circuit.

1. Run fluid thru the unit and be sure any air is out of the unit.
2. Turn the unit on and watch the computer board.
3. If the computer board lights up and goes thru its diagnostic routine and shows your temperature setting when it is finished then the following parts are working properly..computer board..#7 in the picture below and pressure switch #10 in the picture below. If the board does not light up then you must replace the board.

4. The most common problem with this unit at initial start up is a restricted flowmeter. This part is a spinning turbine with magnets on the end to allow the computer board to measure flow depending on the speed the turbine is spinning.

A restriction would be indicated if the power board light is on and showing the temperature setting after running thru its start up routine and all operating parts…elements, thermostats, and triacs… have been checked and are operational and no hot water is being produced by the unit. To fix this problem, remove the plumbing on the right side and look inside see the restriction and remove it. You should hear the turbine spinning when you blow air into the unit.
If the unit is still not working do the following tests before proceeding.
Turn off the main power.

1. Determine if the elements ohm to their correct reading.

Ohms Test: Check each element(#4 in the above picture) with an OHMs meter for correct readings. If the elements reads 0 or flickers it is bad and needs to be replaced. If the failed element looks like it was split from the inside it probably failed due to air in the heater and you need to check the water source for a problem.

6KW 240 volts= 10 OHMS
6 KW 208 volts= 7.2 OHMS
6 KW 277 volts= 12.8 OHMS
5 KW 240 volts= 12.2 OHMS
4.5 KW 240 volts= 13 OHMS
4 KW 240, 6 KW 288 volts= 15 OHMS
3 KW 240 volts= 19.5 OHMS

2. Test the thermostats(see the picture below.) The thermostats have only a safety funtion in the E series and generally only fail in an overheating situation. They shut the unit down if the temperature inside exceeds their setting. The thermostat can fail permanently if the water in the chamber overheats and if it goes over 260 degrees Fahrenheit the fuse side of the thermostat will burn and the thermostat will never work again. The thermostat will have continuity if the fuse side of the thermostat is still good.

The thermostats condition is determined by a continuity check AFTER POWER IS OFF AND AFTER COLD WATER HAS BEEN RUN THRU THE HEATER TO RESET THE THERMOSTATS.
Continuity is tested between the arms on the thermostat. Occasionally, you get a false positive on a thermostat. It may read as good but have a weak connection.

If a thermostat tests as “no continuity” the thermostat should be replaced.

3. TEST the triacs. (see the above picture) The triacs allow powerto pass thru them once the gate valve is opened by the computer board sending a signal thru the gate. This gate post is labeled #1 in the picture below and is smaller than the other two posts. Take an ohms reading across posts one(gate) and two(power out) of the triac as labeled in the picture below. It should read .63 ohms +. Then, check for continuity across posts two and three …which are the outlet power and return power. Both these posts are larger than the gate post mentioned above. If you have continuity the triac has shorted and must be replaced with the 800 volt triacs specified by the factory.

Call us at 800 826 5537 for assistance if you have any questions.

If the unit is still not putting out the temperature of fluid you expect you need to do the following tests.

Set the temperature to a high enough temperature and flow level that the heater will need maximum draw to fulfill the task.

Test for full load AMP draw with an AMP meter after referring to the engineering chart on page 4 that shows FLA by unit size and voltage.. Also at FLA, the computer board on the unit unit should be flashing which indicates you are asking the unit to do more than it can do.

Reduce the temperature requested till the unit quits flashing. When the unit just quits flashing it should be operating at close to full load and putting out the temperature you are asking for within 2-3 degrees.

Check for full load draw again and and the temperature output.

Check the line voltage and be sure you are receiving the proper voltage across two of the three lines of your three phase heater.

If the output temperature is not within 3 degrees you probably have an element that is not working or you have a computer board that is expecting more or less power going to the elements.

Shut the unit off and do an ohms test on each element as shown in step 1 above .

If all elements are good re do the continuity test on the thermostats. If they all have continuity they are good and are not the problem.

If all the above checks out and you do not get the output you should then you should call us at 800 826 5537 for help or at any other time during this process, or please fill out the Troubleshooting form.  Filling out and sending us the form at the right will enable us to determine the status of your warranty and also allow us to prepare for the call from your electrician. You can fax them at 941-755-6529 or email them to info@hotwaterheater.com This will expedite the process of getting your heater back into optimum operation.

Tankless, Inc. 2060 Whitfield Park Ave., Sarasota, FL 34243 Phone: 1-800-TANKLESS 1-800-826-5537

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